by Ed Brotak
A large part of the charm of Sanibel and Captiva islands is due to the lush, natural vegetation that grows here. And unlike many other vacation resorts, there has been a very determined effort by the islands’ residents to keep it that way. What we have growing on the islands today is the result of a number of factors, some natural and some man-made.
The vegetation that grows naturally in a region is mainly a product of the climate, in particular temperature and precipitation. Sanibel and Captiva average more than fifty inches of rain a year, but most of this falls during the summer. Which means the local flora must deal with a long dry season from October into May.
Winter temperatures can have a big impact on plants, especially frost or freezing conditions. The islands are basically frost-free, which allows tropical vegetation to flourish. And while the past two winters proved especially cold, our local plant life made it through. “We really didn’t have too many problems, especially with the island natives,” says Jenny Evans, native plant nursery manager for the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation (SCCF).
The islands of Sanibel and Captiva today are quite different from what they were originally. “The vast majority of Sanibel was a freshwater wetland, dominated by vast swaths of grasses with occasional cabbage palms,” says Evans. “Low shell ridges that paralleled the outside contours of the island bordered the wetlands and were likely filled with cabbage palms and scrubby understory plants. The Pine Island Sound side of the island contained extensive mangrove forests and, of course, the Gulf of Mexico side had narrow beaches comprised of dune vegetation.
“The vegetation on Captiva had less diversity,” she continues. “It’s basically an extended dune system on the Gulf side, with one small ridge in the middle [that probably had some cabbage palms and hardwoods], and then transitioned into a mangrove ecosystem on the Pine Island Sound side.”
In the 1960s, development of the islands began in earnest, and there was little regard for the natural ecology. The destruction of habitat and the introduction of invasive plant species quickly destroyed what nature had taken thousands of years to create.
But a determined group of concerned citizens decided to fight back. In 1967, they achieved their first goal of saving the mangrove forests in what was to become the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge. They went on to form SCCF to continue the acquisition of land and the protection of the natural environment. By 1974, SCCF, along with the newly formed City of Sanibel, ended unrestricted development on the islands.
Today, Sanibel and Captiva still have some of their original natural vegetation areas. The mangrove forests on the Pine Island Sound side have been preserved. Red mangroves predominate at lower levels, with black mangroves at higher elevations. The beach vegetation on the Gulf side of Sanibel and Captiva has also been maintained. Grasses such as sea oats and railroad vine are common. The lower dunes are home to sea grape and other shrubs.
It is the interior of Sanibel that has changed the most. Originally, the lowlands, which were often flooded during the rainy season, were a sea of spartina (or cordgrass). Higher and drier sites featured cabbage palmettos.
The draining of the wetlands in the 1960s radically changed things. It opened the door to invasions by exotic plant species, in particular Brazilian pepper and Australian pine trees. SCCF has restored a few areas where people can go to see what much of the interior of Sanibel once looked like. Even in the developed part of the interior, there has been a determined effort to integrate native vegetation into a suburban setting. SCCF runs a nursery for native plants so locals can purchase them; it will even provide someone to help homeowners with landscaping.
The islands are home to a number of outstanding golf courses, which have managed to preserve and use native vegetation where possible. “Fortunately, the Sanctuary was originally constructed in such a way that, if possible, native vegetation was left,” says Kyle Sweet, superintendent at the Sanctuary Golf Club on Sanibel. “What we have been able to do is embellish what is already there and expand native plantings. We desire plants that require little to no fertilizer, do not have to be irrigated, and have little or no insect and/or disease issues. That’s why many natives fit the bill.”
Keith Cole is area director of horticulture for LXR Luxury Resorts & Hotels and is responsible for the Dunes Course on Sanibel and the Captiva Course at South Seas Island Resort. He echoes Sweet’s thoughts on utilizing native plants. “It is a challenge to blend a manicured look into the natural, tropical setting of Sanibel and Captiva,” says Cole. “We accomplish it with the use of natives. We’ve transitioned to numerous natives not only to be environmentally responsible, but also for their natural tropical characteristics, tolerance of the sometimes-extreme environmental conditions, and minimal maintenance once established.”
Many area residents are just as committed to native plants. Dee Serage-Century has lived on Sanibel for thirty years. She was the second manager of the SCCF nursery and is still an educator for it. Her yard features “a very mature native plant landscape,” which she sometimes opens for tours.
Phyllis Gresham also knows her plants. After retiring, she became a master gardener through the Cornell Cooperative Extension. She moved to Sanibel seven years ago and became chair of the Vegetation Committee for the City of Sanibel. Her yard is a showcase of native plants with dozens of species on display.
Both women are quick to point out that native plants attract wildlife. Serage-Century’s current work with SCCF involves educating others about landscaping for and living with wildlife. And Gresham, an avid birder, has seen firsthand the benefits native plants can bring. “Our plants provide nectar and food for insects, in turn bringing birds!” she says.
Both man and nature have had to deal with weather’s greatest storms—hurricanes. Although rare, major hurricanes like Hurricane Charley in 2004 have affected the islands. “Many of the old-growth mangrove stands are still a mess from [Charley],” says Tara Wertz, a biologist with the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge. “Standing dead and fallen trees make much of these areas impenetrable.”
The imported Australian pines once so common on the islands also suffered significant losses. But there was a definite upside to that. “People could now replace them with native tree species,” says Rebecca Grotrian, a nursery assistant at SCCF. Towering royal palms and the common cabbage palms were often utilized as alternatives.
Interestingly, storm-surge flooding by salt water is not a major problem with native vegetation, which has had to adapt to it over the years. “I watched in amazement as native plants grew better after saltwater flooding than before,” says Serage-Century of her yard after flooding from Hurricane Charley.
Utilizing native vegetation obviously has many advantages. But it goes beyond that. As Gresham puts it, “Native plants are the foundation of our environment.”